We are in Milan today in the kitchen of GialloZafferano to prepare an evergreen of Lombardy cuisine The MILANESE STEAK! A dish everyone likes! In order to prepare the Milanese steak we will need: veal loin clarified butter grated bread eggs salt and a bit of Maldon salt.
Let’s cut the meat. The steak must be cut a bit thick as to get a classical cut I’ll slice two. Average weight of each steak is about 250gr. It is a fair amount of meat although you have to consider that it also includes the bone.
This bit of the bone, and where all the nerves are, it’s going to release during cooking a very interesting taste, round and full. Now I’m going to clean the bone from all this extra flesh which otherwise during cooking would become brown whereas like this the butter will make the whole bone bit beautifully clear.
Here it is! Let’s take everything off nicely. Let’s put aside all the waste and let’s do also the other steak, let’s scrape it properly like this Let’s also try to reduce the bit of the bone so that it will cook faster and better.
So here Let’s get rid of this little bit. Please be careful with the knives and bear in mind it’s always better to have properly sharpened knives because they help cut better and consequently they don’t slip and they’re less likely to cut you.
So have your knives properly sharpened. Now I’m going to pound the meat only to make it homogeneous so a very very light pounding. I’ll get rid of the superficial nerves that during cooking might make the steak shrink and here we have the two steaks ready to be battered.
Here we are, perfect! So let’s batter our steaks now. Let’s crack two eggs in a big bowl without breaking the yolk too much. The eggs should preferably be fresh, ok? Then we put the bread in a broad and large dish Do not put salt nor flour on the steak Because salt would dehydrate the meat, would produce a liquid film around it and would prevent the bread from sticking on it and not even flour because the flour would then fall off during cooking.
So let’s dredge it once and then, using the bone as a handle to move the steak from one thing to the other, we do this action, carefully squeezing it like this and then again a second drenching. You need to squeeze very ‘accurately the meat without flattening it too much.
There are several different ways to make a Milanese steak. I’m making it thick which is the one I like most because I like savouring the meat’s taste rather than the crispy fried bread, but also the thinner one which children like a lot my daughter for instance, who is 28, still eats the thinner one because that’s the one she likes so I cook it both way! The choice is yours! Ok let’s start again with the second one.
When preparing the Milanese steak you must remember to sing “Oh my beautiful little Madonna” (“O mia bella Madonnina”). That’s it. In order to make the bread stick to the meat more, we are going to pound it with the carving knife and here we have made the thick Milanese steak.
Now, if you wish, you could slice the steak across in two and open it wide by pounding it you could make the so called “elephant ear” which is a big Milanese steak with the bone in the middle and the two famous elephant ears on the sides.
That’s very nice too; that has to be served thin. Let’s draw some lines like this. If you make a Milanese the batter is very important: it should be prepared very close to preparation and cooking so that the bread doesn’t get damp.
If you don’t have enough time and need to make it in advance, remember to give it another layer of grated bread before cooking it: It will dry the humidity and the batter will result crispier. Now let’s move to the preparation of the potatoes! We need Ratte potatoes, clarified butter, rosemary, garlic, salt and a little bit of pepper.
Let’s take the Ratte potatoes: The Ratte potatoes are small new potatoes, that you don’t need to peel as it would produce a lot of waste. You simply have to wash them properly in some water and baking soda.
They are very useful because they cook extremely quickly. We slice them with this mandolin slicer. Mind your fingers! And we put them in some water to avoid oxidation. Let’s slice them keeping the middle part and chucking the two ends.
Let’s store them in water a little bit. They’ll lose some of their starch even if the Ratta potato is not that full of starch. Then we drain them a bit and dip them in a casserole full of salty boiling water to blanch them.
Leave them to boil, they will cook a little and then we will proceed cooking them either in oil or in butter as we prefer. The potatoes boiled for about 1 – 1 and a half minutes. Let’s drain them. Here I’m going to cool them down a bit and then I’ll dry them with a tea towel to prevent splattering when dipped in the hot clarified butter.
Let’s move to cooking: let’s increase the temperature the pan must be fairly hot let’s add the clarified butter. If you don’t want to use butter you can easily use extra virgin oil. It doesn’t change much: it is only slightly more sour.
I prefer butter because we have the two tastes in the steak and in the potatoes that match. While cooking the potatoes we can also start preparing to cook the Milanese steaks. In this case the butter must be abundant.
We are not deep frying, but still, it has to be rich in fat. The clarified butter for the potatoes is already hot enough so that we can stir fry them nicely, ok? Let’s add a garlic clove if you like to have this flavour but only cutting it and leaving it unpeeled.
A bit of rosemary to give it a nice smell and cook it in lively and consistent heat as if it was frying; in fact if you have a frying machine and would like to fry them in oil you can fry them directly.
The stir fry potato is the typical side dish for the Milanese steak. Let’s dip in the clarified butter the steaks on the lined side. The butter must be hot but not intensely, because it must not immediately fry, otherwise the inside cooking won’t be perfectly even.
So a good temperature, but not extreme, eh? The ratta potato absorbs very little fat so it is also lighter. Let’s now turn the steak: it’s nicely golden coloured and also the lines are beautifully vivid.
Scoop with your spoon some of the cooking fat and pour it on the bone handle in order to make it a nice light colour and cover those blood streaks which were still a bit too intense. Very well! Cooking time is about 8 minutes which is the same time required by the potatoes to cook so we get to cook both things at the same time and reach the maximum result because fragrance is the key element of this dish.
Firm batter perfect sauté also the lines are very nice crispy potatoes. The inside must be slightly pink not too well done, to be more juicy. Last touch: remember we never put salt. Let’s put some “Maldon Salt” which is in flakes.
A lot! To give a lot of taste to the meat, the meat inside will be very sweet. We are looking at a masterpiece of Milanese cuisine, an absolute dish! A dish that, thanks to my suggestions, you’ll be able to prepare at home as a great chef!